Indonesia, like many developing countries, is turning to ecotourism to integrate the goals of development and nature conservation. A critical part of developing ecotourism programs is evaluating the impacts of tourist activities and monitoring the effectiveness of tourism in conserving nature and improving local livelihoods. In the mid-90s, I evaluated ecotourism in the Tangkoko DuaSudara Nature Reserve, North Sulawesi by examining trends in visitor numbers, the tourist experience, distribution of tourist revenues, and tourist impact on endemic primates. Data showed that tourism was expanding rapidly but local benefits were not being fully realized, the reserve did not generate enough money to implement management, and primate behavior was being affected. Recommendations derived from the research included the need for a change in legal status of the reserve, strategies for minimizing impacts on wildlife, increasing income to the reserve, and improving distribution of those resources. Ten years later, few recommendations have been implemented and the situation for the reserve, its wildlife, and the local communities appears worse than during the mid-90s. Tourist arrivals have become highly unpredictable following political, social and financial crises in Indonesia. The few economic benefits realized by the local communities are now volatile and undependable.This study underscores the need for scientifically based evaluations of ecotourism, but also highlights the limitation of even the best designed plans in the face of inadequate implementation, poor governance, and political and social chaos.